Dog Anatomy Study Guides

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davesun

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Has anyone found really useful study guides for Dog Anatomy??? Im a first year using Saunders guide to dog anatomy and was thinking about trying the flash cards by the same publisher. I like flash cards, and I saw some others out there but they had so-so reviews. THANKS!
 
do you have any link to go for complete navle preparation program?
 
I just got the Saunders cards, too. I think they will be helpful, but they come in a box that is really too big to carry around. I got a smaller 4x6 index card file, and pull out sectionsof 30-50 cards at a time to carry around and study when I'm sitting at lunch or whatever.

What I've found with these cards and with other study aids is that they often have slightly different names for muscles and structures than our "official" dissection guides, or they may not go into quite as much detail. So they are still good, but not perfect and I still need to use the official materials a lot.

One of our anatomy profs has made a lot of bones and dissection videos that we can load onto our laptops. Other than actually spending every weekend in lab pulling things apart, these videos are probably the next best thing for me. Each one is about 15 minutes long, but takes me at least twice that with stopping, reviewing, finding the same structures in the book, etc. But it's almost like being able to do the actual dissection sitting at home on the couch. There probably are commercial videos like that available too, that might be even better. These are great, but this prof is kind of like Borat the Anatomist, so he takes a little getting used to.
 
I like the cards but they don't really go into enough detail for what our class requires. For instance the show a cross section of the head and about 10 things labeled but in reality we have to know about 50 structures total.
So for a lot of the cards I just add on the structures we need to know but that it doesn't have.
Of course that doesn't work if the card set does not include a medial view or lateral view or whatever that you need to see blank structure.

Moderately helpful in my view.
 
I have recently found Boyd and Paterson's "Colour Atlas of Clinical Anatomy of the Dog and Cat" to be incredibly helpful, at least with my learning style. It has color pictures of bones by themselves and complete cadavers, with points on each picture labeled with numbers so you can quiz yourself. There are tons of pictures from different angles, cross-sections, with some muscles reflected, etc. The photos are also of fresh cadavers, so they look similar to what we will actually see during surgery, rather than the black and white lines drawings in Miller's (which I personally hate). On top of all that, there are corresponding radiographs to help you see how the structures will look on a film.
 
I have been using Color Atlas of Veterinary Anatomy: The Dog & Cat by
Stanley H. Done; Peter C. Goody et al. Very good for use alongside dissections and in dissection projects. It has very good photos of the dissections with labelled illustrations allongside the photos. I have also been using Miller's Guide to the Dissection of the Dog, but it is not that great. If you use that one make sure you get the recent version with colour images as it is much more user friendly.

There is also a novel computer program which really helped me with the musculoskeletal anatomy in particular. It is called K9 Anatomy and it is a virtual dissection guide. I highly recommend it. You have to buy it online but it is only $10 and well worth the money! It's by Donald R Adams and it is available here http://www.vetmeded.com/dog/interactive/
 
Sorry I just realised my last post may be seen as advertising, but I do not know how else to point you in the direction of the K9 anatomy.
 
Dog anatomy includes the same internal structures that are in humans. Details of structures vary tremendously from breed to breed, more than in any other animal species, wild or domesticated, as dogs vary from the tiny Chihuahua to the giant Irish Wolfhound.

Like most predatory mammals, the dog has powerful muscles, a cardiovascular system that supports both sprinting and endurance, and teeth for catching, holding, and tearing.The dog's ancestral skeleton provided the ability to run and leap. Their legs are designed to propel them forward rapidly, leaping as necessary, to chase and overcome prey. Consequently, they have small, tight feet, walking on their toes; their rear legs are fairly rigid and sturdy; the front legs are loose and flexible, with only muscle attaching them to the torso.Although selective breeding has changed the appearance of many breeds, all dogs retain the basic ingredients from their distant ancestors. Dogs have disconnected shoulder bones (lacking the collar bone of the human skeleton) that allow a greater stride length for running and leaping. They walk on four toes, front and back, and have vestigial dewclaws (dog thumbs) on their front legs and sometimes on their rear legs.When a dog has extra dewclaws in addition to the usual one on each front leg, the dog is said to be "double dewclawed".There is some debate about whether a dewclaw helps dogs to gain traction when they run because, in some dogs, the dewclaw makes contact when they are running and the nail on the dewclaw often wears down in the same way that the nails on their other toes do, from contact with the ground. However, in many dogs the dewclaws never make contact with the ground; in this case, the dewclaw's nail never wears away, and it is then often trimmed to keep it to a safe length.The dewclaws are not dead appendages. They can be used to lightly grip bones and other items that dogs hold with the paws. However, in some dogs these claws may not appear to be connected to the leg at all except by a flap of skin; in such dogs the claws do not have a use for gripping as the claw can easily fold or turn.There is also some debate as to whether dewclaws should be surgically removed.[citation needed] The argument for removal states that dewclaws are a weak digit, barely attached to the leg, so that they can rip partway off or easily catch on something and break, which can be extremely painful and prone to infection. Others say the pain of removing a dewclaw is far greater than any other risk. For this reason, removal of dewclaws is illegal in many countries. There is, perhaps, an exception for hunting dogs, who can sometimes tear the dewclaw while running in overgrown vegetation.

If a dewclaw is to be removed, this should be done when the dog is a puppy, sometimes as young as 3 days old, though it can also be performed on older dogs if necessary (though the surgery may be more difficult then). The surgery is fairly straight-forward and may even be done with only local anesthetics if the digit is not well connected to the leg. Unfortunately many dogs can't resist licking at their sore paws following the surgery, so owners need to remain vigilant.In addition, for those dogs whose dewclaws make contact with the ground when they run, it is possible that removing them could be a disadvantage for a dog's speed in running and changing of direction, particularly in performance dog sports such as dog agility.The dog's ancestor was about the size of a Dingo, and its skeleton took about 10 months to mature. Today's toy breeds have skeletons that mature in only a few months, while giant breeds such as the Mastiffs take 16 to 18 months for the skeleton to mature. Dwarfism has affected the proportions of some breeds' skeletons, as in the Basset Hound.

Knowledge of basic anatomy also helps when competing in dog shows or contests.
 
Troll? Always wanted to use this emoticon::troll: Haha, that was so random.
 
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