Loan payoff : Big payment vs. Monthly Payment

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CardinalGirl210

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Is is better to make extra payments every month towards the loan debt or save every month then do a big lump sum payment every 6-12 months? My finance guy recommended only pay the minimum now & save. Then decide after a few months if I want to send it to my loans. I have an emergency fund of 9K right now - should I first save more for my emergency fund before I try to start making extra payments towards my loans?

26yo single, living on my own in apt, graduated May 2014, 122K base salary, >200K loans consolidated

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Save minimum 3 months emergency supply (cost of living + extra few thousands dollars) if you have a safety net: Your parents or whoever that can support you. Save 6 months if you don't. Dump everything else to your loan monthly and 401k. Don't do big lump sump coz you still pay interest 6%+ on your loan when that money is doing nothing in your bank, no reason to delay making that payments.
 
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Don't listen to the finance people especially the ones who work on fees. Their finance interest is not always your best interest.

Pay it off as soon as the money is in the bank. Don't wait and pay a lump sum because interest is accumulating every day.

I recommend:
(1) 6 months emergency fund
(2) put 401 k to the company's match
(3) pay off your student loan ASAP if it is less than 250 k. You can get on IBR/PAYE but at the end of the day, you will be paying more. If it is more than 300 k and you want to gamble and hope the government will forgive your loans one day, pay the minimum. I don't recommend this of course but if you have 300 k + 7% interest rate, what other options do you have? You will have a hard time paying it off on a pharmacist salary.
 
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I have a few coworkers who do small payments twice a month in order to pay less interest.

I think I would forget to do this, so I don't and just lay a little more than the minimum every month.
 
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I feel like you should have a years worth of emergency funds unless you have family that will let you move in nearby. I'd recommend creating a spreadsheet to track your loans, it was motivating seeing that number go down each month.
 
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I also recommend:

(4) pay less interest rate by refinancing your student loans if less than 250 k. But you need a good credit score in order to do this. You would also have to forgo the option IBR/PAYE but if your goal is to pay it off ASAP then it wouldn't matter.
 
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Btw, didn't you ask this question a while ago?
 
Don't listen to the finance people especially the ones who work on fees. Their finance interest is not always your best interest.

Pay it off as soon as the money is in the bank. Don't wait and pay a lump sum because interest is accumulating every day.

I recommend:
(1) 6 months emergency fund
(2) put 401 k to the company's match
(3) pay off your student loan ASAP if it is less than 250 k. You can get on IBR/PAYE but at the end of the day, you will be paying more. If it is more than 300 k and you want to gamble and hope the government will forgive your loans one day, pay the minimum. I don't recommend this of course but if you have 300 k + 7% interest rate, what other options do you have? You will have a hard time paying it off on a pharmacist salary.

You should call recommendation #3 the type B pharmD financial strategy.
 
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Why do so many financial advisers give such terrible advice? It makes so much more sense to pay what you can each month - you will save in interest over the long term.
 
I'm only a P2, but I generally have good sense of money, or ask for help when I don't know. Which is good that you ask. Peoples opinions are going to be wide spread and not much utility, but something that could be very useful to you is do a real simulation of the next four years of your life by making REALISTIC contributions on paper. Do this on paper with one side being the REALISTIC contributions and one for your other strategies. Apply interest for both simulations after each pseudo-contrubution, and you'll have your answer pretty quickly. Side note: one of my pharmacists had about 125k debt coming out and is on pace to be finished with his loans 4 years post grad. He still lives comfortably, but pays himself like a resident. Everything else goes to loans and saving
 
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Your loan interest just keeps on compounding. Seriously, look at your balance today, look at it tomorrow, the next day. It's probably something like $25 per day. Why wait until you have a big pile to make a payment? Pay as often as you can. I make a payment with every paycheck, and another one depending on how my monthly budget went if there's some extra.
 
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I'm only a P2, but I generally have good sense of money, or ask for help when I don't know. Which is good that you ask. Peoples opinions are going to be wide spread and not much utility, but something that could be very useful to you is do a real simulation of the next four years of your life by making REALISTIC contributions on paper. Do this on paper with one side being the REALISTIC contributions and one for your other strategies. Apply interest for both simulations after each pseudo-contrubution, and you'll have your answer pretty quickly. Side note: one of my pharmacists had about 125k debt coming out and is on pace to be finished with his loans 4 years post grad. He still lives comfortably, but pays himself like a resident. Everything else goes to loans and saving
as a P2 (not sure if you are a young 20-something?) you are in the minority of having good common financial sense. I wish more people had this thought. I had one student who was banking on the 10 year loan forgiveness and took out 320k in loans "just because he knew he wouldn't have to pay them back". If the law changes he is screwed.

I graduated owing 110k - minimum payments of $600 - I paid $2000 a month towards them and lived simple Well worth it.
 
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The average financial advisor's advice is meant for the average person. That is why a lot of them will give us bad advice.

For example, many of them will tell us to max our 401k out before paying back student loans. For the average person, that makes sense because

1. they do not have > 6 figures in debt
2. They can reduce their AGI so they can take advantage of a lot of deductions
3. They most likely will pay less taxes in the future

For us, using that money to pay off the principle off student loans helps us save 6.8% in interest. That is 6.8 percent return TAX FREE! Also, no matter how much we reduce our AGI, we will still be above 60-80k so we can not deduct things. Also, we will most likely be paying a lot more taxes in the future because we make too much and will likely have other forms of investments. Plus, the government will probably tax us more in the future also.

For us, we should only put in enough for the company match, and then invest the rest else where from paying off loans to property investments.
 
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Being debt free and seeing your investments grow is the best feeling ever!

There is no price on that!

I love the feeling knowing that I am worth >200k... and have no obligations. I can retire in Thailand and live like a king right now!

although I am sure the equation will change in a few years when I have kids
 
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For whatever it's worth, here's my personal situation:

I graduated last May ($175k loans), got Licensed and started working full-time as Staff in July. So far I've paid off about $10k, my goal is pay off another $60k this year. I'm just paying the minimum payment monthly and focusing on saving as much money as possible for "in case of emergency" situation. Between my wife and I we currently have $35k in savings, and we plan on saving as much as possible and then slapping down a lump sum of $60k on my loans at end of the year. Personally, I'd rather have the money in my savings and know it's there, rather than drop a big amount each month and have little to nothing in my bank account. Maybe it's not the best financial move, I don't know, but to each their own I guess.
 
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For whatever it's worth, here's my personal situation:

I graduated last May ($175k loans), got Licensed and started working full-time as Staff in July. So far I've paid off about $10k, my goal is pay off another $60k this year. I'm just paying the minimum payment monthly and focusing on saving as much money as possible for "in case of emergency" situation. Between my wife and I we currently have $35k in savings, and we plan on saving as much as possible and then slapping down a lump sum of $60k on my loans at end of the year. Personally, I'd rather have the money in my savings and know it's there, rather than drop a big amount each month and have little to nothing in my bank account. Maybe it's not the best financial move, I don't know, but to each their own I guess.

To each their own.

Everyone has their own priorities and goals. There is no "wrong" way of doing it.

You wont starve either way...
 
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To each their own.

Everyone has their own priorities and goals. There is no "wrong" way of doing it.

You wont starve either way...


Yep. In the meantime, we are maxing out our 401k profit sharing through work each month, we have a combined $50k so far. Overall our general expenses are pretty low, no credit card debt, so we'll be able to throw $60k at my loans this year and still grow our savings. Being debt free in the near future is something I look forward too.
 
as a P2 (not sure if you are a young 20-something?) you are in the minority of having good common financial sense. I wish more people had this thought. I had one student who was banking on the 10 year loan forgiveness and took out 320k in loans "just because he knew he wouldn't have to pay them back". If the law changes he is screwed.

I graduated owing 110k - minimum payments of $600 - I paid $2000 a month towards them and lived simple Well worth it.

Yes, I just turned 24. Yeah, I don't understand how people think that is a good way to do things. I mean I understand the logic somewhat, but that's really putting all your eggs in one basket. I'm going to be in a very similar situation to where you were. I think I'll be at like 115k if everything goes reasonably to plan, and I plan to immediately make large contributions like you did.

As far as emergency situations, I know that I can't speak for everyone because I don't have kids or a wife (although my girlfriend is becoming increasingly expensive), but just because you make large contributions does not mean you can't also make solid contributions to an emergency fund, as well, right?
 
Is is better to make extra payments every month towards the loan debt or save every month then do a big lump sum payment every 6-12 months? My finance guy recommended only pay the minimum now & save. Then decide after a few months if I want to send it to my loans. I have an emergency fund of 9K right now - should I first save more for my emergency fund before I try to start making extra payments towards my loans?

26yo single, living on my own in apt, graduated May 2014, 122K base salary, >200K loans consolidated
1. Make a written budget so that you know where your money is going, so you can plan ahead as much as possible to avoid 'emergencies' and impulse buys, and so you can make cuts where possible. I believe you can live very comfortably on $3,000/mo. Pharmacist take-home pay is around $5,500-6,000/mo so that leaves you $3,000 extra for loan repayment.

2. Use the budget multiplied by 3-6 months to work out how much you really need in your emergency fund. So if your budget is $3k x 3 mo = $9k at the low end if you have support from family, etc and no dependents. Otherwise, push to the high end of 6 months.

You only save up to this level one time and set it aside. Once you are at the level you decided on, you do not add anymore each month. You will really only dip into your emergency fund if you lose your job, or have some other drastic life changing event. Any other unplanned expenses need to be 'cash-flowed' out of the $3,000 budget surplus that you have, not from the emergency fund.

If you follow these steps, then you don't need to save more than your emergency fund, just to make a lump sum payment on your loans every few months. There is nothing to decide in the meantime on what to do with the money, or IF you should send it to your loans. You ARE going to send it to your loans, so do it as soon as you get your paychecks, and have used your budget to subtract what you need to pay your other expenses.
 
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Yep. In the meantime, we are maxing out our 401k profit sharing through work each month, we have a combined $50k so far. Overall our general expenses are pretty low, no credit card debt, so we'll be able to throw $60k at my loans this year and still grow our savings. Being debt free in the near future is something I look forward too.
think of it this way - would you take out a loan for 60K at 7% interest (or whatever your rate is on those loans) just so "you could have the money in the bank?"
 
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Yes, I just turned 24. Yeah, I don't understand how people think that is a good way to do things. I mean I understand the logic somewhat, but that's really putting all your eggs in one basket. I'm going to be in a very similar situation to where you were. I think I'll be at like 115k if everything goes reasonably to plan, and I plan to immediately make large contributions like you did.

As far as emergency situations, I know that I can't speak for everyone because I don't have kids or a wife (although my girlfriend is becoming increasingly expensive), but just because you make large contributions does not mean you can't also make solid contributions to an emergency fund, as well, right?
I built up 10k in a emergency fund pretty quick - I was also lucky that when I graduated I had virtually unlimited overtime opportunities (I worked 7 on 7 off and had my choice of shifts during that 7 off)- I think I made 45k in just overtime my first year.

A small emergency fund for a pharmacist making 120k a year is a huge emergency fund for someone working a 10$ a hour job - so think about that when you think what you will need in an emergency - how much is the bare minimum you can live off of for 3-6 months?
 
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think of it this way - would you take out a loan for 60K at 7% interest (or whatever your rate is on those loans) just so "you could have the money in the bank?"

That's a good point.
 
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You can save quite a bit in total interest if you make smaller payments more often. I would recommend making a payment every other week rather than once per month. You can ultimately pay the same amount in payments every month and chop at least a few months off your loans this way.
 
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You can save quite a bit in total interest if you make smaller payments more often. I would recommend making a payment every other week rather than once per month. You can ultimately pay the same amount in payments every month and chop at least a few months off your loans this way.
You also make 26 payments per year if you make fortnightly payments of a half-month's amount. That's 13 months worth, so you do end up paying more per year, but less over the course of the loan.
 
You didn't tell us what the interest rate was on your student loans. This makes a huge difference.

I paid off over 70k on my loans in my 1st 2 years out of school, not including my monthly payments. This due diligence paid off, as I was able to consolidate the rest of my loans with DRB into a 5-year loan that I can afford at 3.5%. Now that all my loans are 3.5% or less, there is no reason for me to pay them off early.

You also have to consider the opportunity costs that I missed. The stock market was much better than 6.8% during the past 3 years. Housing prices were also very good 3 years ago. I missed several opportunities by putting 70k extra in student loans.
My main point is that this is a complicated question.
 
You didn't tell us what the interest rate was on your student loans. This makes a huge difference.

I paid off over 70k on my loans in my 1st 2 years out of school, not including my monthly payments. This due diligence paid off, as I was able to consolidate the rest of my loans with DRB into a 5-year loan that I can afford at 3.5%. Now that all my loans are 3.5% or less, there is no reason for me to pay them off early.

You also have to consider the opportunity costs that I missed. The stock market was much better than 6.8% during the past 3 years. Housing prices were also very good 3 years ago. I missed several opportunities by putting 70k extra in student loans.
My main point is that this is a complicated question.
I still disagree with not paying of loans ASAP - you can always have 20 20 hindsight. Basically my point still stands - would you borrow 70k at 6.8% to invest in the stock market?
 
Listen to Dave Ramsey...if you need motivation to pay off loans ASAP.

No more vacation, eating out, buying clothes/shoes. Dave Ramsey really changed my life.
I wish all schools would give a copy of the Total Money Makeover during orientation week.

9/16/2014 : $276k refinanced with Sofi at 3.545% variable
2/15/2015: $230k remaining

paid $46k in 5 months. (sold $22k of stocks and put toward loans)

I still disagree with not paying of loans ASAP - you can always have 20 20 hindsight. Basically my point still stands - would you borrow 70k at 6.8% to invest in the stock market?

I'm not sure. However, many of us could have greatly accelerated our retirement plans if we had made sure to put way more into index funds since 2009. I've also priced out some of my missed real estate opportunities. We had a great time to buy property after 2009. In the right markets, many of us could have paid off much of our loans already on the appreciation alone. I probably do regret not jumping on some real estate opportunities.

Also, if some of you guys have the option of PSLF, I would still consider it. Since interest does not accrue on interest, it won't be an epic failure if PSLF bails on some of their obligations. I probably wouldn't do IBR unless loans are greater than 250-350k.
 
The average financial advisor's advice is meant for the average person. That is why a lot of them will give us bad advice.

For example, many of them will tell us to max our 401k out before paying back student loans. For the average person, that makes sense because

1. they do not have > 6 figures in debt
2. They can reduce their AGI so they can take advantage of a lot of deductions
3. They most likely will pay less taxes in the future

For us, using that money to pay off the principle off student loans helps us save 6.8% in interest. That is 6.8 percent return TAX FREE! Also, no matter how much we reduce our AGI, we will still be above 60-80k so we can not deduct things. Also, we will most likely be paying a lot more taxes in the future because we make too much and will likely have other forms of investments. Plus, the government will probably tax us more in the future also.

For us, we should only put in enough for the company match, and then invest the rest else where from paying off loans to property investments.

You're making my eyeball twitch! THIS ^^^^ is "bad advice".

It makes sense even more the more money you make. 401k first, especially if you are single. That's a 28% tax savings (deferred actually) right there, much better than saving 7% on loans. THEN, that $17,500 401k money you saved, is probably earning close to if not more than the 7% that is on your loans, basically paying that interest for you.

If you marry your tax rate will go DOWN in the future, especially if your spouse stays at home. You may begin to deduct interest again because the threshold rises from 80k to 160k for married couples for student loan interest.....off Modified Adjusted Gross Income (after 401k contributions and some other misc items).

The 28% bracket (the amount paid on your top dollar of adjusted gross income) for single people is $89,351 to $186,350, for married couples its $148,851 to $226,850.

Even if your spouse works, the ability for both of you to save $17,500 ($35,000) total of your income (employer match is separate) takes a big chunk off your AGI, and could easily be in the 25% tax bracket when married. Buying a house? Even deeper into the 25% bracket.

The game is about net worth, not debt. Add up your assets, subtract your debt the resulting number is the one you should be concerned about. It's all about not spending the money in the first place, once you accomplish that whether it goes into a 401k or towards debt doesn't have that much of a difference.

That being said, maxing out your 401k will save you $4900 a year in taxes ($17,500 * .28). That $17,500 will only be $12,600 on your paycheck due to income tax. So if you apply that $12,600 to your loans you will save $882 in interest that year....vs saving (deferring) $4900 in income tax.

Also, keep in mind, your $17,500 is earning interest in your 401k account, about $1200 a year at 7%, more than offsetting your student loan interest of $882 on the $12,600 you were able to pay off.

None of this even takes into account any match from your employer. Then its even better.
 
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Who can I refinance my big government student loans with? The government? I don't get how that works...
 
Private institutions. Fixed rates are under 5%, variable rates around 3%. "citizens" is one bank. Google is your friend.
 
You're making my eyeball twitch! THIS ^^^^ is "bad advice".

It makes sense even more the more money you make. 401k first, especially if you are single. That's a 28% tax savings (deferred actually) right there, much better than saving 7% on loans. THEN, that $17,500 401k money you saved, is probably earning close to if not more than the 7% that is on your loans, basically paying that interest for you.

If you marry your tax rate will go DOWN in the future, especially if your spouse stays at home. You may begin to deduct interest again because the threshold rises from 80k to 160k for married couples for student loan interest.....off Modified Adjusted Gross Income (after 401k contributions and some other misc items).

The 28% bracket (the amount paid on your top dollar of adjusted gross income) for single people is $89,351 to $186,350, for married couples its $148,851 to $226,850.

Even if your spouse works, the ability for both of you to save $17,500 ($35,000) total of your income (employer match is separate) takes a big chunk off your AGI, and could easily be in the 25% tax bracket when married. Buying a house? Even deeper into the 25% bracket.

The game is about net worth, not debt. Add up your assets, subtract your debt the resulting number is the one you should be concerned about. It's all about not spending the money in the first place, once you accomplish that whether it goes into a 401k or towards debt doesn't have that much of a difference.

That being said, maxing out your 401k will save you $4900 a year in taxes ($17,500 * .28). That $17,500 will only be $12,600 on your paycheck due to income tax. So if you apply that $12,600 to your loans you will save $882 in interest that year....vs saving (deferring) $4900 in income tax.

Also, keep in mind, your $17,500 is earning interest in your 401k account, about $1200 a year at 7%, more than offsetting your student loan interest of $882 on the $12,600 you were able to pay off.

None of this even takes into account any match from your employer. Then its even better.

The big question: max out your 401 k or just contribute to the company's match and put the rest toward your student loans.

I don't want to do the calculation (you can search for it) but it really depends on how much 401 k money you will have when you retire. If you start to withdraw your 401 k at 7% a year and receive social security (also taxable income) at 65, you will most likely be paying more taxes. Also when you are at retirement age, you may no longer have a mortgage and therefore, you would not have as many things to deduct.
 
The big question: max out your 401 k or just contribute to the company's match and put the rest toward your student loans.

I don't want to do the calculation (you can search for it) but it really depends on how much 401 k money you will have when you retire. If you start to withdraw your 401 k at 7% a year and receive social security (also taxable income) at 65, you will most likely be paying more taxes. Also when you are at retirement age, you may no longer have a mortgage and therefore, you would not have as many things to deduct.

If you have so much money that your min 401k withdrawal requirements (which start at 70 1/2) put you in a married 28% tax bracket, you don't have money problems and you will die a rich person.

Also, the additional tax you MAY have to pay will have been overshadowed by the total amount of money your investment returned over 40+ years. Rough math, you may have to pay an additional 3k a year in taxes on an additional $600,000 you have in your account due to the deferred taxes.

And, you may die before your 65th birthday anyway.

Bird (in this case "tax cut") in the hand is worth 100 in a bush (or potential future tax savings).
 
Yes - obviously take your 401k to get the company's match before paying extra on your student loan -

maxing out the 18k you can put into your 401k past the match is a debatable question.

I just don't want to my loans hanging over me any longer than I have to. Once you don't have that debt over your head it is amazing how free you are, and if you feel locked into a job you can say screw it and are willing to take something less to make you happy
 
Also, and this is key. If this idea of paying your student loans off faster instead of putting the money in a 401k is going to save you money over the long term, then you will have the same or greater wealth when you're 65 anyway, so your tax liability will be the same or greater. Because as I said before, it's about net worth, not debt. Equal net worth will roughly equal same tax liability in a low debt (late in life) scenario.

The argument is basically, "don't save too much money because you will have to pay tax on it".
 
Yes - obviously take your 401k to get the company's match before paying extra on your student loan -

maxing out the 18k you can put into your 401k past the match is a debatable question.

I just don't want to my loans hanging over me any longer than I have to. Once you don't have that debt over your head it is amazing how free you are, and if you feel locked into a job you can say screw it and are willing to take something less to make you happy

Anything is debatable. What we are talking about is maximizing our money. Feel good is a separate, but still valid concern.

If having 1,000,000 with zero debt after 5 years makes someone sleep well then that is what they should pursue. If having 1,300,000 with zero debt after 10 years makes them feel more secure then they should pursue that.

I speak from experience. Once your debt is gone, and it will be gone regardless. The only number that matters is your total cash.
 
I'm a bit wordy. Here is what I want all new grads to think about, that is their NET WORTH number.

All new grads think about the student loan number, and tend to downplay everything else, and that's understandable given the size of that number.

Keep the loan number in mind, but every month calculate your NET WORTH. It is likely it will be negative at first, but the NET worth number helps in ALL financial decisions, cars, houses, etc. Eventually you will move over to that number anyway. By doing so early with the power of compounding, you could change your financial future buy hundreds of thousands of dollars. Every month maximize THAT number.

These first 5 years are critical. The money you invest now will work for you for 50+ years, your debt will be gone in 10 regardless. Focus on the 50 year number.
 
Private institutions. Fixed rates are under 5%, variable rates around 3%. "citizens" is one bank. Google is your friend.

How variable is variable? Based on what? To the people who have refinanced, who'd you go with and why? Pros, cons?
 
They vary. Some have yearly caps, lifetime caps. It depends on your own situation. How long do you plan on taking to pay them off? How stable is your job (deferral options are restricted)?

Read the fine print. It's literaly a 20k-100k decision. Take the appropriate amount of time to research it. Hiring a financial planner if necessary for a couple hundred dollars.
 
I know the math works out in favor of investing instead of paying off debt, but personally I feel that once you account for risk and all of life's other variables, then the spread or margin that you make is too slim to make it worthwhile. For example, you could invest in the stock market with a long-term average return of 8-12% (with a lot of short-term variability), but you're paying 6.8% interest on your student loans, so you may only be making a 1.2% spread on that money.

Also, I think if you really focus on attacking your loans, you can knock out $200k in about 5 years, which is short enough that the spread wouldn't even compound much. Then you will be completely free to focus your energy and all that free cash flow on investing or whatever, and you have plenty of time left to do so.

Well that's just the philosophy I live by, and if it adds any credit to my word, I'm 33 y/o, have a net worth of about $600k, and about $30k left on my mortgage :)
 
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I go by net worth. Debt is not the enemy. Math doesn't lie. Pick the greatest amount of return you can get in the long run and stick by it. The only thing is almost 90%+ people are not like me. They are VERY debt averse. Also, when they start accumulating large sum of money, instead of investing wisely, they start doing dumb things with it and they end up less what they originally plan for. For a lot of average persons, focus on clearing your debt is probably NOT a bad choice to bring you that piece of mind even though you get maybe $100k less return in the long run (30-40 yr).
 
I'm a bit wordy. Here is what I want all new grads to think about, that is their NET WORTH number.

All new grads think about the student loan number, and tend to downplay everything else, and that's understandable given the size of that number.

Keep the loan number in mind, but every month calculate your NET WORTH. It is likely it will be negative at first, but the NET worth number helps in ALL financial decisions, cars, houses, etc. Eventually you will move over to that number anyway. By doing so early with the power of compounding, you could change your financial future buy hundreds of thousands of dollars. Every month maximize THAT number.

These first 5 years are critical. The money you invest now will work for you for 50+ years, your debt will be gone in 10 regardless. Focus on the 50 year number.


Okay, so for me a P2. What is your guy's opinion? My work currently makes me contribute to a 403B every paycheck. It is minimal, and I think I can increase it if I want to. Also, on top of that I miscalculated how much they would be giving me for tuition reimbursement (the rules are pretty lax as far as paying back if you don't accept job there after graduation) to the tune of an additional 2K (they gave me 3250 instead of the 1250 I was expecting). This led me to having more total cash than I was expecting....

Here comes the help.

Do you guys recommend:

A. Increasing my 403B and then taking out less money for my P3 year (I will need some undoubtedly for tuition [I go to Cincinnati and it's about 19k a year on top of about 6k for room])

B. Starting Roth IRA and then taking out less money for my P3 year

C. No adjustments to 403B, no Roth IRA and taking out substantially less for P3 year

D. Both Roth IRA and 403B increase on top of taking out my normal amount of loans minus the tuition reimbursement I will receive for the next year

There are other variations, but you guys get the gist of the question.

Edit: I'm 24, not married
 
C. No adjustments to 403B, no Roth IRA and taking out substantially less for P3 year
For the reasons I stated above: you don't make enough spread borrowing money on one side, and investing it on the other side.

Focus on school, getting work experience and connections, and use the money from work to reduce the amount you have to take out in student loans as much as possible.
 
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I agree. Focus on your education. Saving money in one hand and racking up 7% debt on the other doesn't make too much sense. You probably don't have enough money for actual investing. So your chance of equaling the interest on your loans is slim and too risky.

A couple minor details is whether or not your student loans are subsidized, meaning are they collecting interest while in school. If not (no interest) take them. If they are collecting interest avoid them.
 
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That's why you do fixed rate. Drb typically is lower then sofi
 
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