When i am doing class IIs, sometimes when I go to drop a box I screw up the pulpal floor. Does anyone have any advice for getting the pulpal floor level and smooth successfully? I have a hard time not puncturing a hole in the side of it because my bur will slip..its frustrating.
need help with pulpal floor
- Thread starter Stephie3
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first make sure you're prewedging. It helps a lot. Then when you're dropping the box, don't cut all the way to the adjacent tooth. It's kinda hard to explain but think of leaving the shell of the tooth. That way, you can use your hand instruments. Use your margin trimmers and hatchets to make the margins and floor smooth.
At the beginning, you're going to use a lot of hand instruments but after you drop so many boxes you'll realize you use hand instruments for less than 10% of the prep. Hope it helps.
And yeah, you can use a diamond bur, but don't recommend that because in real life you're not going to be prepping a class II with a diamond bur. It will take way too long.
And make sure you're sitting on the correct position so you know when to stop using the handpiece.
At the beginning, you're going to use a lot of hand instruments but after you drop so many boxes you'll realize you use hand instruments for less than 10% of the prep. Hope it helps.
And yeah, you can use a diamond bur, but don't recommend that because in real life you're not going to be prepping a class II with a diamond bur. It will take way too long.
And make sure you're sitting on the correct position so you know when to stop using the handpiece.
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Try an end cutting bur. You're gonna love'em especially for boards.
If you have a store at school ask them to show you some. They have no flutes on the side, and only cut on the tip.
-C
If you have a store at school ask them to show you some. They have no flutes on the side, and only cut on the tip.
-C
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Dont start prewedging, you won't do it in practice and you should start getting it right now. Regardless of the bur, its the hand. You need to think of the handpiece like a paintbrush. You dont want to peck with it, you want to wipe with it when prepping the floor.
Drop your box first w/the correct shape and outline before you do the rest of the prep. Use a small burr like a 329 to get those perfect line angles and box shape symmetrical to the proximal surface of the tooth.
David
David
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definitely agree with the recommendation to use an end cutting bur - those are by far my favorite burs to use now.
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are you talking pre-clinically on plastic teeth or life human ones?
If you're doing this on plastic teeth in sim, it's definitely harder to get the exact measurements and you will probably be very scared to "drop the box" and over-extending on accident.
Try using any small burr to drop the box and extend minimally. Move onto hand instruments, hatchet, hoe, chisel depending on tooth/arch to smooth the gingival floor.
I'm not sure if you are referring to gingival floor or pulpal floor because those are two different things that you probably are aware of. THe pulpal floor is easily smoothed with 256/330 burr on the class 1 portion of the prep. To get the axial-pulpal line angle smooth, I use the 699L burr or any 700 burr to the correct contours of the DEJ. Good luck and practice!
If you're doing this on plastic teeth in sim, it's definitely harder to get the exact measurements and you will probably be very scared to "drop the box" and over-extending on accident.
Try using any small burr to drop the box and extend minimally. Move onto hand instruments, hatchet, hoe, chisel depending on tooth/arch to smooth the gingival floor.
I'm not sure if you are referring to gingival floor or pulpal floor because those are two different things that you probably are aware of. THe pulpal floor is easily smoothed with 256/330 burr on the class 1 portion of the prep. To get the axial-pulpal line angle smooth, I use the 699L burr or any 700 burr to the correct contours of the DEJ. Good luck and practice!
