Please I need advice

[WildlifeSaver]

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If anyone can please help me I would be open to your thoughts very much.

To make a long story short......

My ex bf (been broke up for 2 1/2 years), dropped off a cat that was "ours". When we were together, he gave me a cat for a birthday present, but that cat was born outside and had a lot of wild instincts that he didn't know. The cat was also pregnant at the time and gave birth to 4 kittens. One of the kittens was Leo. I gave them up to a shelter (had to pay money).

So, the one cat (LEO)we had for the remaining year or so was my/his cat? He claims he did it just for me and its my cat. A few months ago someone shot the cat and is front left arm was completely amputated. The cat was NEVER EVER a out side cat, but only up to a few months prior he stated letting him outside. At this time when he was starting to be let out I was already 2 years broke up with him. He did this because the cat pees on cloths sometimes.

I know cats will do that to claim their territory, but why else do they do it? How do you resolve that issue? Can you change a cat that does this and if so, HOW? Can they be trained? I know dogs could be trained.

I don't want to give him away to a shelter or someone else who will prob find out quick that he has a habit . I am more tolerant with this behavior than most people. I saw this cat being born. I love this cat so much, but I still live at home with my parents and my dad wants my sister to get rid of a cat that pees everywhere. I have to hear the arguments everyday of my life from my dad about that other cat my sister brought into the house that pees where it feels like.

I just don't know what to do and I am very drained right now seeing my 3 legged cat.

I thought about getting my ex in trouble, but I can't after a 2 1/2 hr convo we had. The cat IS MICROCHIPPED To his address and the last vet bills for 298.00 in his name..Even though I didn't help with the bill b/c at the time I had NO MONEY I drove out to the vet clinic a hr away to provid paper work to a agency that helps out people that can't afford large sums of money for vet bills. I do care about this cat a lot.

The vet was willing to give us lower cost because it was a learning experience for her. She never amputated a cats leg before. Alsp, the econmy was mentioned in his treatment. The vet had 3 legged cats of her own and told us since he is very young she wouldn't let the cat go.

Alot of effort was put into this cat for my ex to hold him as long as he could tolerant, but I don't agree with his actions tonight. It was 9pm and really cold outside dropped off in a metal cage. I just got a text meswssga and I haven't had contact with this person for 4-5 months?

I don't want him to be tossed around like a toy from home to home and than end up in a shelter one day when he is too old for anyone to want to adopt him and put to sleep or put to sleep period.

I just don't know. I made this longer then I wanted, I apologize.

 

[SHEEPRL]

In my experience in is very hard to discontinue the habit of urinating in/on clothes. The unfortunate part is if the cat is urinating on clothes they are probably doing it on the carpet or elsewhere. One thing that you may try is only keeping the cat in un-carpeted(tiled/wood floors) areas with a bed/cat house to lay in. Carpet absorbs urine and keeps the smell in it for ever, where as tiled floor you can at least disinfect and rid the floor of the smell.

 

[Marsala]

Have you had the cat checked to make sure that there isn't a bladder/kidney infection? I would start there.

 

[WildlifeSaver]

Have you had the cat checked to make sure that there isn't a bladder/kidney infection? I would start there.

I am pretty sure it doesn't. The cat has started this more then a half a year ago and it only does it sometimes.

I don't know:

1. What I should do with Leo on my bed b/c I don't have my own place

2. If I gave him to a shelter what would happen to him in the future.

3. If I should reason with ex to take him back for longer

4. If he can be trained for real

5.???

 

[aspiringDVM]

First, make sure you're not dealing with actual medical issues like a UTI or crystals/ stones as a previous poster suggested.
Is there at least one fresh, very clean litter box that is readily available? Also, if you have other pets, make sure they're not tormenting Leo every time he goes inside (this happened with the cats of one of the techs I work with. Poor thing was just terrorized!). Some of the clients at the clinic where I work have had really good luck with a product called "cat attract" that you sprinkle in the litter (I think it's herbs or something?) to encourage them to go in the right place.
Good luck, and I hope everything works out!

 

[twelvetigers]

My cat pees on rugs, clothes left on the floor, towels and bathmats on the floor, and dog bed/pillows on the floor. Without these things around, he never pees anywhere he should not, including the carpet. I'm not sure why, but this is my experience.

I would try him at home with clean litter and no clothes around that aren't on hangers or in a hamper... see how he does.

 

[WildlifeSaver]

My cat pees on rugs, clothes left on the floor, towels and bathmats on the floor, and dog bed/pillows on the floor. Without these things around, he never pees anywhere he should not, including the carpet. I'm not sure why, but this is my experience.

I would try him at home with clean litter and no clothes around that aren't on hangers or in a hamper... see how he does.

Is this the only thing I can really do though? 🙁

 

[CatVet2Be]

If Leo pees on your bed when you're gone you'll have to find something to keep him off of it. Home Depot sells plastic carpet runners by the square that have plastic spikes on the underside. You can take these, flip them upside down and place them on areas where you want kitty to stay off of (counters, couches, beds etc...). Definitely keep all towels and clothes off the floor since they seem to "tempt" some cats to mark them. And look into a product call Feliway, there's sprays and plug ins for the wall. It emites pheromones that can help calm a cat that is having behavioral spraying issues. It's helped some people with innapropriate urination. There are also meds (anti-depressants) that can be given that may help.

If you can't keep him you could try calling the vet clinic that he had his surgery at and tell them of the situation. They may know of a client who's looking for a new cat or someone there may have a soft spot for him. Cats with behavioral urinating issues are often turned away at shelters so I would start with contacting clinics and cat rescues first.

I'm sorry you got stuck in this situation, that really sucks. 🙁

 

[twelvetigers]

Well, if we don't know WHY he's peeing on things, then yeah, you need to try and figure it out. What if he just does it because he feels like it? Can you deal with that, or is that intolerable? I don't think it's a training issue. Cats are good about using their littler boxes in general, so there must be some reason he chooses not to.

Why would you send him back to your ex if the leg amputation was his fault in the first place? Do you want him outside in the same sort of situation? And if your ex doesn't want the cat anymore, well, I wouldn't try to force it on him...

You could give him to a shelter if you wanted to... that's your choice. You could also try to find a home for him yourself...

Or you could deal with the pee. There really aren't any better options.

It's a tough situation. 🙁

ETA: I've heard great things about Feliway, if you can afford it!

 

[WildlifeSaver]

First, make sure you're not dealing with actual medical issues like a UTI or crystals/ stones as a previous poster suggested.
Is there at least one fresh, very clean litter box that is readily available? Also, if you have other pets, make sure they're not tormenting Leo every time he goes inside (this happened with the cats of one of the techs I work with. Poor thing was just terrorized!). Some of the clients at the clinic where I work have had really good luck with a product called "cat attract" that you sprinkle in the litter (I think it's herbs or something?) to encourage them to go in the right place.
Good luck, and I hope everything works out!

He always had a clean litter box. Cleaned EVERYDAY. I don't know why he likes to pee certain places. Maybe it is b/c he lived with a male dog and was marking. Cats are strange.

The cat already here (Sunny) bad cat, pees when he is upset I think. Twice as soon as he came in my room he peed in the corner of the hard wood floor in my bedroom and was shaking. I think he is scared of my father which HATES this cat with a passion. I think that cat pees a lot of places for the hell of it though. One time I think he peed on the curtain in the living room...Not sure what that cat reason is either.

I never thought of kidney stones though. I mean, why not use the liter box? Why would he seek a basket of cloths or cloths on the floor? I don't get the behaviors.

I heard of a cat psychologist before on why cats act out on animal planet. I only saw like 25 mins of it and it was interesting to see why cats will act the way they are.

 

[CatVet2Be]

As far as the other kitty in the house peeing and shaking, have you ruled out an infection for that one? Cats will do this if they are in pain, and if you've ever had a UTI you know how uncomfortable this is. A cat with a urinary infection or one dealing with stones/crystals in the bladder will most likely fell pain or discomfort when they urinate in their box, they begin to associate this with their litter box and will seek out other places to urinate.

 

[WildlifeSaver]

What really makes this a sad situation is I WANT to keep LEO. My dad will have a heart attack if I try to keep him here. I am still unsure if I am moving to WI for fall for undergrad and I wish this happened during summer if I was moving because I would take him with me. I have a lot of sorting out to do with trying to get him to use a litter box all the time and pleading with my dad for him to stay here for a while.

 

[WildlifeSaver]

As far as the other kitty in the house peeing and shaking, have you ruled out an infection for that one? Cats will do this if they are in pain, and if you've ever had a UTI you know how uncomfortable this is. A cat with a urinary infection or one dealing with stones/crystals in the bladder will most likely fell pain or discomfort when they urinate in their box, they begin to associate this with their litter box and will seek out other places to urinate.

maybe? hmmmm, maybe both cats should be checked out.

 

[CatVet2Be]

It's a good thing to rule out and much easier to "fix" than a behavioral issue. The down side though is that if both cats have been doing this for a long time it's probably unlikely to be the only cause by this point. What may have begun as a medical problem may be a behavioral issue but at least it's a start. And even if it isn't medical you can discuss using meds with the vet.

Another thing we recommend to re-attract cats to their box is to make sure you have an open box (no cover) with plain unscented litter (something like johnny cat). Try placing a couple in different locations, sometimes cats avoid boxes that are placed in undesirable areas. A jumpy cat may avoid the litter box that sits next to the washer or dryer for example because of the noise or may have been startled by the buzzer mid-pee. A high traffic area may be too busy for some while a remote area may be too out of the way for others. Cats are a little neurotic so you have to really look at things closely to figure out what they're thinking. Also a good rule of thumb is to have 1 more box than you have cats. 2 cats = 3 boxes.

 

[VAgirl]

I think this thread is straying into the realm of medical advice, but I had to offer this up.

First, there is a big difference between feline inappropriate urination and urine marking. If your cat is urine marking and he is not castrated, you should seriously consider having him castrated. Studies had demonstrated that castration is 80-90% effective in eliminating urine marking behaviors in male cats, pretty much regardless of the age at which the animals were castrated.

For inappropriate urination that is not urine marking, what people have mentioned above is appropriate--rule out any potential underlying physical causes before jumping to a behavioral conclusion.

 

[Pandacinny]

I know you don't have much money, but you need to TAKE YOUR CAT TO A VETERINARIAN! There are a few reasons he could be urinating on your clothes and running diagnostics on your cat could rule out some of the reasons. There also may be some medical options your vet can talk to you about for helping this behavior, if it's not being caused by something painful (and they are VERY painful) like a UTI or crystals. Just because your cat only urinates out of the litterbox sometimes doesn't mean some sort of underlying medical problem can be ruled out. You need to get him in to see someone to figure out what's actually wrong, rather than home or internet diagnosing him and trying things that won't work or could be detrimental. Also, what VAgirl said about the neutering.

 

[Angelo84]

My only other advice is to try a litter box buffet--different types of litter in different places and see what he likes. If he really likes clothes you could consider getting some really cheap t-shirts and lining the box with them. But rule out medical causes first. Talk to your vet.

Good luck.

 

[sumstorm]

1) take any animal that is having unusual urination/defecation issues to the vet. any good behaviorist is going to say the same thing. Rule out the physical before going for the behavioral.

2) If the cat is intact, consider altering it. At this point, when euthanasia or abandonment (even to a shelter) is a possability, altering is a viable step.

3) Clean every spot in the house that may have even potentially be soiled thoroughly with an enzymatic cleaner made for cats. If there are areas that have had repeated visits, block the area. Chairs, overturned laundry baskets, etc work well in this area. If there is an all time favorite place, consider placing food/water in that spot after it is cleaned. This is also a good time to bleach and scrub all litter boxes.

4) IF everything is good physically, retraining is a possability. Start by confining the cat to a small area such as a large crate or a small bathroom. Provide water, a perch, toys, and a litter box in the confined area. This should be an easily cleaned space. Feed on a schedule, just like you would with a puppy (I encourage wet foods for cats having any issues.)

5) Cat stays confined UNLESS you are directly interacting with it. If the cat is a foodie, and you catch it using its litter box, give it a treat. If it is a scaredy, and you hear it using its box, try to ensure that nothing happens (loud noises) that startles it. Clean the box frequently, even if it is several times a day. If there is enough room in the confined area, you can try alternative litter boxes/litters. Cat litter attractant is effective for some cats. Sometimes supplementing shredded paper/papertowel for litter works well for cats that urinate on cloth. Try different depths in the litter box as well (remember, a litter box doesn't have to come from the pet store...storage containers, pie tins, etc can all work.) IF a cat is off balance, changing the dimensions of the box can help provide a method of stability.

6) if the cats habit is urinating on clothes, don't leave clothes where they can be urinated on..... breaking the habit and cycle is important, and the easiest way is to not allow opportunity.

7) when the cat is out of confinement, they should be in a room with a person who is aware of them (for some people, this could mean while they are doing a dozen other things, for other people, it means all they can be doing is watching the cat) for the first 1-2 weeks. Visits should be short in duration (15min-60min) but can be frequent. If you can get through 1 solid week without an accident, increase the duration of the outings OR (note that is OR, not AND) increase the access of the cat to the house (add another small room.) Any time you increase space, observe more closely. If you do catch the cat having an accident, calmly scoop it up and place it in a litter box. Don't yell, throw things, etc. Scared cats will just hide the next time they feel the urge. For each expansion of room, be certain there is easy and clear access to a litter box at all times, even if that means putting an extra temporary box in that room. If there are problem spots, you might also put litter boxes there (want to establish habit of urine = litter...or a contextual preference.) Easy and clear access means no scary people, pets, or obstacles in the way (one common scary obstacle is a flimsy gate the cat has to jump over.)

8) Continue this until the cat can have freedom of the house again. Typically, 3 months in my experience. If there is a set back, step back one part of the process (so if you expanded to say 4 rooms and 4 hours at at time, reduce back to 3 rooms 4 hours or 4 rooms, 3 hours, or 3 rooms and 3 hours.

9) Another thing that I find helps is to start regular training sessions with the cat. clicker trianing works really well for this. The more you and the cat can communicate, the easier these problems are to solve.

It is possible to solve urination issues, though sometimes you have to be disciplined and creative. I have helped, by my training records, at least 32 cats get over urination issues (if the owners were willing to do the work), and those were the ones that the vet recommended to me because of behavior. I generally didn't accept clients that don't sound dedicated to the work (because it IS intensive and it IS work) and I have failed with 2 cats, one of which had other behavioral issues (biting) and the other that would urinate on any smooth surface the moment his paws made contact (couldn't interrupt the behavior chain.)

Good luck, if you do surrender the cat, be honest. If the former SO doesn't want the cat, don't push the cat on him. If your parents don't want the cat, and you are living with them, the best thing you can do is negotiate for a period of retraining where there are deadlines for improvement (I always suggest improvement be measured in percentage of incidents.... ie if it is happening every day now, every day = 100%, and the goal after a month is a 50% reduction of incidence, etc....I never promise, in a negotiation, 100% because life happens. I want improvement, not perfection, when it comes to behavior.)

 

[Marsala]

My personal experience:

I have a cat (Eeyore) that for a while was doing this very thing. Could not figure out why. I took her to Purdue, spent a fortune, no results. I was at my wits end. I have my regular vet in town, who tends to be a little nontraditional. He tests her urine with a stick test, and it consistently (over a period of weeks) shows leukocytes, high pH, etc. Her bladder is irritated. He insists it is FUS (feline urologic syndrome) and treats her by giving her a shot (I think it is just dexamethasone, if I remember correctly) once a month, and it has worked wonders. She gets shots every two weeks in spring and fall when the weather changes, because he believes that the weather change causes increased irritation (it appears he is correct). Definitely consider this, because FUS is very common. Dex shots aren't expensive (at least at my vet).

PLUS-this may sound silly, but it has worked for me. Eeyore is a rescue cat, but if you look in the breed books, she is a Russian Blue to the core. Needy and demanding your constant attention. So I lavish her with extra attention. This seems to help appease her, and the only time she has an 'accident' is when I have to travel out of town for more than a few days.

I would consider that it is FUS, and see if you can treat that.

 

[Marsala]

I should also add that you should consider that the amputation may have made him needier (again, some may think this is silly). Eeyore was found between the dorms and the frats here, and her tail had been cut off to 1.5 vertebrae. Not torn, CUT! Many vets have suggested that the trauma may have something to do with her behavior.

Eeyore has gotten much better, but it took a while to figure out why. Good luck!

 

[WildlifeSaver]

Sumstorm, your method sounds almost like a dog training method which I was going to try, but a little different. I was going to confine him only to my room and sometimes put him in the metal cage with the litter box. Your method sounds really logical though. I know it is a LOT of WORK, but I want to do anything to change the cats.

The other cat is real problem and I know it is going to be harder to figure out something for him because my dad puts him outside even if the cat is sleeping. My dad yells at Sunny too. Sunny was never neutered. I made two appointments for my mother and sister and they never cared to take him. It is like, I have to do it, why? My sister brought the cat into the house. Because I am the animal person?? They need to help me with some of the charge or I will give them the money if they take them! I would just do it for them if they want that done. I keep on telling everyone all the time, lets get the cat neutered. I know I am going to wined up doing it all. I think that will help the problem, but a big change too. I can't stand that he isn't too. He is prob making hunds of baby cats that we do not need in the world.



The tripod cat is neutered, vaccinated, microchipped.

Right now I am hoping to keep Leo for a while or longer.. I don't think my dad knows the cat is in my room yet which is not good.

Anyway, a lot of every ones advice sounds reasonable.

 

[sumstorm]

I believe there are two essential components in training any animal: communication and cooperation. I have trained dozens of species, and if we are always working to communicate in a way that works for the animal and asking for thier cooperation, the same basic methods work across species. Set the environment up for success, reinforce the behavior you want, remove opportunities for failure or inappropriate behavior, and break habits by interrupting sequences and providing other options.

 

[WildlifeSaver]

I think this thread is straying into the realm of medical advice, but I had to offer this up.

First, there is a big difference between feline inappropriate urination and urine marking. If your cat is urine marking and he is not castrated, you should seriously consider having him castrated. Studies had demonstrated that castration is 80-90% effective in eliminating urine marking behaviors in male cats, pretty much regardless of the age at which the animals were castrated.

For inappropriate urination that is not urine marking, what people have mentioned above is appropriate--rule out any potential underlying physical causes before jumping to a behavioral conclusion.

How do you know if it is inappropriate urination or urine marking though? Is inappropriate urination where a cat urinates by accident or behavioral issues?

 

[JustCats]

I didn't have time to read the whole thread but I spent enough time to know there's lots of good advice here. I have two questions which may have been answered. Sorry if I'm asking you to be repetitive.

1) Is he spraying or urinating? That is, is he standing upright with his tail raised when he does this or is he squatting?
2) Is the cat neutered and, if so, at what age was he neutered? If he was neutered after he developed secondary sexual characteristics which often accompanies the onset of urine-marking behaviors, it is often difficult to get them to stop.

I'll wait for a reply before I bother to contribute something that someone else has probably already explained in a more eloquent manner. Thanks!

 

[JustCats]

I think I just answered this question in my last post. Spraying=urine marking: cat is upright with tail raised. Inappropriate urination is done is the squatting position.

How do you know if it is inappropriate urination or urine marking though? Is inappropriate urination where a cat urinates by accident or behavioral issues?

 

[sumstorm]

Something else....if there is another intact male cat that might be spraying in the house...even in a litterbox, it might trigger inappropriate urination in the other cat.

 

[sofficat]

My personal experience:

I have a cat (Eeyore) that for a while was doing this very thing. Could not figure out why. I took her to Purdue, spent a fortune, no results. I was at my wits end. I have my regular vet in town, who tends to be a little nontraditional. He tests her urine with a stick test, and it consistently (over a period of weeks) shows leukocytes, high pH, etc. Her bladder is irritated. He insists it is FUS (feline urologic syndrome) and treats her by giving her a shot (I think it is just dexamethasone, if I remember correctly) once a month, and it has worked wonders. She gets shots every two weeks in spring and fall when the weather changes, because he believes that the weather change causes increased irritation (it appears he is correct). Definitely consider this, because FUS is very common. Dex shots aren't expensive (at least at my vet).

PLUS-this may sound silly, but it has worked for me. Eeyore is a rescue cat, but if you look in the breed books, she is a Russian Blue to the core. Needy and demanding your constant attention. So I lavish her with extra attention. This seems to help appease her, and the only time she has an 'accident' is when I have to travel out of town for more than a few days.

I would consider that it is FUS, and see if you can treat that.

Urine sticks will almost always show high leukocytes and it is not accurate. Tthe ONLY way to be sure if the urine truly has leukocytes in it is to look at it under a microscope. If the pH is truly high it may be fixed by changing to a special diet.
Also, Dex shots are NOT a good long term answer. I am not trying to talk poorly about this vet (he's probably just an older vet), but (most) every vet student on this board will agree that your kitty should not be getting dex shots every two weeks, even if it seems like it is helping. Long term steroids, especially injectables, have many many negative side effects. Talk to your vet and try to get your kitty off of this 'treatment' plan.

 

[Pandacinny]

Wildlifesaver, if you're interested in vet med, you'll probably have to get used to being the "go to" for all things animal related in your family. While I was in high school, I paid to get my parents' farm dogs neutered and I took all three to the rabies clinic to keep them UTD, plus taking them in to the vet for heartworm tests and etc as I could afford it. Sinc ebeing in college, I've helped thme TNR some feral cats on their property. My parents mean well, but my stepfather isn't into taking on/taking care of every stray that wanders onto the property (which covers all the dogs but one and definitely the feral kitties.) He's coming around to valueing vet care more, but it's taken years of patient education and support on my part. I don't think this situation is unique to me or my family, either, from talking to other pre-vets/vet students/vets.

Anyways, I'd say one of your first steps is to get your sister's cat neutered. Check out any subsidized options in your area if you don't have much money. Then, schedule the appointment and personally bring the kitty in for surgery. If you don't have a car, see if you can pick a time when a friend can drive you. It's a pain to have to cover your family's pet care like that, but think of it as something to help your OWN kitty as well.

 

[VAgirl]

If he was neutered after he developed secondary sexual characteristics which often accompanies the onset of urine-marking behaviors, it is often difficult to get them to stop.

According to research cited by my behavior professor, this isn't true. "No relationship was found for age at time of castration and persistence in the behavior after castration." Again, for urine marking, not for inappropriate urination.

 

[WildlifeSaver]

Wildlifesaver, if you're interested in vet med, you'll probably have to get used to being the "go to" for all things animal related in your family. While I was in high school, I paid to get my parents' farm dogs neutered and I took all three to the rabies clinic to keep them UTD, plus taking them in to the vet for heartworm tests and etc as I could afford it. Sinc ebeing in college, I've helped thme TNR some feral cats on their property. My parents mean well, but my stepfather isn't into taking on/taking care of every stray that wanders onto the property (which covers all the dogs but one and definitely the feral kitties.) He's coming around to valueing vet care more, but it's taken years of patient education and support on my part. I don't think this situation is unique to me or my family, either, from talking to other pre-vets/vet students/vets.

Anyways, I'd say one of your first steps is to get your sister's cat neutered. Check out any subsidized options in your area if you don't have much money. Then, schedule the appointment and personally bring the kitty in for surgery. If you don't have a car, see if you can pick a time when a friend can drive you. It's a pain to have to cover your family's pet care like that, but think of it as something to help your OWN kitty as well.

Yeah, I am the "go to" person for most of everything pets in this house and other people at wildlife refuge when it comes to wood ducks and ducks🙄.

We have a animal welfare place around here with low cost spay/neutered clinic. I am making another appointment for Sunny. I know this can be very helpful. It is like 48.00 dollars for the surgery which is not a lot of money. People around here need to be more pro active when it comes down to giving the dog for a walk (my mom and I always do it..) and making sure the pets always have fresh ave water and just everything!! Ugh, family..

 

[WildlifeSaver]

Today I spent 54.00 dollars at the pet store. Took the money out of my payment for school. I bought a starter kit litter box that came with liners, scooper, cat food dish. I also got my bag of exact for my conure. I bought this spray cleaning on hard surface cleaner for cats that urinate (org 9.00 and got it for 2.00!).

I bought a dollar toy that he doesn't play with. He isn't playful anymore which I don't know if that is concerning or not. Cat depression or phychological problem because something is bothing him or just..? He is like 1 1/2-2 old.

I bought vitamins that promotes good urinary health for cats and grass. I am still going to take him to the vet soon though.

When I came home today and gave him the vitamin I was surprised he chewed that hard sucker up that is the size of a penny!

Oh, and whoever posted about that spray or plug in the wall feilway stuff to make cats calm and not urinate, I found it in Petsmart. It is 47.00 for the plug in that last 4 weeks. Right now, it is discounted like 38.00, so maybe next pay check I will get it. Do you think it really is good? Leo seems to be stressed everytime he hears someone loud or coming up the steps.

Going into petsmats I sure can spend..haha, I love my animals.

 

[VAgirl]

Today I spent 54.00 dollars at the pet store....

Oh, and whoever posted about that spray or plug in the wall feilway stuff to make cats calm and not urinate, I found it in Petsmart. It is 47.00 for the plug in that last 4 weeks. Right now, it is discounted like 38.00, so maybe next pay check I will get it....

Before you spend more money at the pet store, take your cat to the vet if you haven't done so already!! You have to rule out the possible underlying physical causes.

 

[WildlifeSaver]

Before you spend more money at the pet store, take your cat to the vet if you haven't done so already!! You have to rule out the possible underlying physical causes.

I know!!🙂 I have to make a appointment. I am happy that he seems to be using the litter box right now too.

 

[redsteven]

If Leo pees on your bed when you're gone you'll have to find something to keep him off of it. Home Depot sells plastic carpet runners by the square that have plastic spikes on the underside. You can take these, flip them upside down and place them on areas where you want kitty to stay off of (counters, couches, beds etc...). Definitely keep all towels and clothes off the floor since they seem to "tempt" some cats to mark them. And look into a product call Feliway, there's sprays and plug ins for the wall. It emites pheromones that can help calm a cat that is having behavioral spraying issues. It's helped some people with innapropriate urination.

I've got a cat at home who has a similar problem.

Unfortunately the feliway is not cheap and the cost can start to add up... that's why I stopped using it.
They also sell special litter (i think it's called Cat Attract) that's supposed to get them to use the litter box.

As far as your bed goes, the best thing to do IMO is to go buy a transparent shower curtain (if it's too big then cut it in half), and lay it over your bed. You can even place a towel at one end for the cat to lay on. That way the cat can go on your bed and, if he does pee, it's on plastic and can easily be cleaned.

Then, when you go to bed at night, just fold up the curtain and place it on the side. The next morning just put it back on the bed.
I think the bed's the most important piece of furniture to protect for obvious reason.

 

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Oh, and whoever posted about that spray or plug in the wall feilway stuff to make cats calm and not urinate, I found it in Petsmart. It is 47.00 for the plug in that last 4 weeks. Right now, it is discounted like 38.00, so maybe next pay check I will get it. Do you think it really is good? Leo seems to be stressed everytime he hears someone loud or coming up the steps.

Going into petsmats I sure can spend..haha, I love my animals.

I certainly agree with others that a trip to the vet is in order. I have a cat that had urinary issues as well. He is a special cat for many reasons, but he would urinate on dirty laundry too. After many vet visits and dollars, it was determined behavioral. To break the behavior, I purchased a laundry basket with a lid. (Then I trained my husband to use it too.) I also use the Feliaway plug -ns. They are cheaper if you can purchase them on Amazon.com. [I think they work for my case because when my cat starts acting a bit strangely once they need changing.] My Vet also placed my cat on Reconcile to help with the behavior modification. (My cat had other stress related issues so Reconcile may not benefit your situation.) I have not had a problem since this plan was implemented. Of course every situation is different, so talk about options with your vet. I just wanted to chime in because I understand your frustration.

I also wanted to suggest other procurement alternatives beyond PetSmart.

There is sound advice in this thread. Good luck and stay encouraged.