Blumenfeld's was amazing. It's one of the few textbooks I used during med school and it's so well-written, that I nearly read it cover-to-cover. That's how good of a book it is. Part of why it's so good is that, even though it's a relatively long book, it doesn't read like a textbook. You go through it pretty quickly and the clinical cases you work through at the end of each chapter really reinforce all the important points. It made neuroanatomy into one of my strongest subjects. I highly recommend Blumenfeld's.
I glanced at Purves and wasn't a fan of it. Never read the book linked by Nick, but I would most likely still prefer Blumenfeld's.