All About Our Pets(Pics, Advice, Etc)

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I guess I have a new kitty now, and should probably post her. :D

Still working on a name, but the current placeholder (and what will probably end up being her real name) is Tesla. She showed up at my parents' house about a month ago - no microchip, no tags, no response to the dozen signs we put up or petharbor or craigslist ads. She's super talkative, super adorable, and might actually be able to get me up in time for morning classes, hehe.

She's beautiful! Love her leopard-like spots :) I like the name Tesla too.

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I guess I have a new kitty now, and should probably post her. :D

wr1LaFz.jpg


Still working on a name, but the current placeholder (and what will probably end up being her real name) is Tesla. She showed up at my parents' house about a month ago - no microchip, no tags, no response to the dozen signs we put up or petharbor or craigslist ads. She's super talkative, super adorable, and might actually be able to get me up in time for morning classes, hehe.

Omg the markings! And the eyes! Oh she's is just gorgeous ! Congratulations on your new beautiful kitty!
 
Okay I need help. I have a foster puppy who is on cage rest except for potty breaks and I'm having trouble potty training her. I feed her on schedule and wait 15-30 min after each meal to take her out. I cannot walk her cause she has a fractured leg so we just stand in the same grass patch every time. I don't do anything but wait cause I want her to know that when she goes potty is when she gets pets and loves and praises and I want potty done when we get outside. Nope nope she prefers going in her crate. Found two poops in there by noon. Please any tips !?

Here is what worked for my dog. Carry treats in your pocket so she doesnt see them. Walk her out the door to the potty spot and give her a command like $go potty". When she goes pee or poop give her a treat immediately with lots of praise. The treats should be something she loves and only uses for potty time, for now. If she goes in her crate, calmly take her out of the crate with no pets or praise, put her somewhere where she cannot see you cleaning the crate, then go about business as usual. After feeding, I took her out 10 minutes after. If nothing happened, no treats or praise, back in the house. 10 minutes later, try again.

My puppy was trained in three days. Some take 2 weeks before they really understand. Remember also, puppies can't hold it very long. 2-3hrs max. It is very tiresome and trying during training, but if you stick with it, you will have a completely potty trained puppy!

My puppy realized on her own that if she whined at me and went and sat by the door, I would come and let her out. She didn't want to potty in the house.

Hope this helps some!
 
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Here is what worked for my dog. Carry treats in your pocket so she doesnt see them. Walk her out the door to the potty spot and give her a command like $go potty". When she goes pee or poop give her a treat immediately with lots of praise. The treats should be something she loves and only uses for potty time, for now. If she goes in her crate, calmly take her out of the crate with no pets or praise, put her somewhere where she cannot see you cleaning the crate, then go about business as usual. After feeding, I took her out 10 minutes after. If nothing happened, no treats or praise, back in the house. 10 minutes later, try again.

My puppy was trained in three days. Some take 2 weeks before they really understand. Remember also, puppies can't hold it very long. 2-3hrs max. It is very tiresome and trying during training, but if you stick with it, you will have a completely potty trained puppy!

My puppy realized on her own that if she whined at me and went and sat by the door, I would come and let her out. She didn't want to potty in the house.

Hope this helps some!


Thats exactly what I do now like to a T. One day we will get there ! Ill keep trying
 
Okay I need help. I have a foster puppy who is on cage rest except for potty breaks and I'm having trouble potty training her. I feed her on schedule and wait 15-30 min after each meal to take her out. I cannot walk her cause she has a fractured leg so we just stand in the same grass patch every time. I don't do anything but wait cause I want her to know that when she goes potty is when she gets pets and loves and praises and I want potty done when we get outside. Nope nope she prefers going in her crate. Found two poops in there by noon. Please any tips !?

How old is she? If you're only taking her out after every meal, that might not be frequently enough. When you're first potty training a dog of any age, frequency is key. Depending on her age (and thus how long she can reasonably be expected to "hold it"), shoot for every 30mins. That way you'll be almost certain to catch her and when she does go, pile on the treats and praise.

Other ideas:
- wait longer after feeding her
- put some poop on the grass spot so she has some kind of scent recognition. This has helped a dog we had before.
 
How old is she? If you're only taking her out after every meal, that might not be frequently enough. When you're first potty training a dog of any age, frequency is key. Depending on her age (and thus how long she can reasonably be expected to "hold it"), shoot for every 30mins. That way you'll be almost certain to catch her and when she does go, pile on the treats and praise.

Other ideas:
- wait longer after feeding her
- put some poop on the grass spot so she has some kind of scent recognition. This has helped a dog we had before.

She is 4 months old (should have a grasp at this point but shelter animals are always special cases). I will try the poop on the grass idea - i didn't think about that!
 
Still working on a name, but the current placeholder (and what will probably end up being her real name) is Tesla. She showed up at my parents' house about a month ago - no microchip, no tags, no response to the dozen signs we put up or petharbor or craigslist ads. She's super talkative, super adorable, and might actually be able to get me up in time for morning classes, hehe.

Is it weird that the first name that popped into my head is Iphigenia?

Probably.
 
That's a beautiful cat. :D

I have a Westie and a Scottie; The Westie is 8 and named Zelda and Link is the 2 year old Scottie.

Right now Link's rocking an ear infection and they just handed us an ointment. ._.;

I was expecting eardrops, but w/e~

All of your pets are so cute!
 
Everyone meet Warrick! He's our new family member! Comes home August 31st. He's a Great Dane.warrick.jpg
 
RAWR Lucy!! I just came home from visiting UGA and NCSU this week and had a ton of chocolate in my purse from traveling! We got in at 2am so I totally forgot about it today and as soon as we left the house this afternoon, she dug right in. Remembered it 10 minutes after leaving at least - she helped herself to half a bag of Dove sea salt caramel dark chocolates. I am so grateful that all it cost me was a trip to the ER (they know me so well from externing haha), some apomorphine and a bit of anzemet. She's just home for monitoring now but expected to be just fine. Curse these silly animals we love so much!
 
RAWR Lucy!! I just came home from visiting UGA and NCSU this week and had a ton of chocolate in my purse from traveling! We got in at 2am so I totally forgot about it today and as soon as we left the house this afternoon, she dug right in. Remembered it 10 minutes after leaving at least - she helped herself to half a bag of Dove sea salt caramel dark chocolates. I am so grateful that all it cost me was a trip to the ER (they know me so well from externing haha), some apomorphine and a bit of anzemet. She's just home for monitoring now but expected to be just fine. Curse these silly animals we love so much!

Ugh. Glad to hear that it seems like she's going to be okay. I have to be super careful with my doggie cause he's starting to search for things to chew on. Not furniture...just disposable razors, mushrooms, plants, trash, cockroaches...he's going to have a fun time being back in Philly. We really need to work on "leave it."
 
My 11mo old cat some how degloved the very tip of his tail this morning. Brought him to the vet, we clipped the exposed bone, taped his tail and gave him a shot of convenia. I had to doctor a cone to get it to keep him from getting at his tail but he keeps getting around it. He's way more tolerant when the cone is off, but I know he's going to rip off the tape tonight and bleed all over everything either way. going to cross my fingers that I don't wake up to a bloody massacre tomorrow...
 
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My 11mo old cat some how degloved the very tip of his tail this morning. Brought him to the vet, we clipped the exposed bone, taped his tail and gave him a shot of convenia. I had to doctor a cone to get it to keep him from getting at his tail but he keeps getting around it. He's way more tolerant when the cone is off, but I know he's going to rip off the tape tonight and bleed all over everything either way. going to cross my fingers that I don't wake up to a bloody massacre tomorrow...

How badly would it bother him putting a papertowel or toilet paper tube on his tail? Or vetwrapping his entire tail with popsicle sticks to keep it straight so he can't reach it with the cone on? :laugh: (trying to be innovative here)
 
How badly would it bother him putting a papertowel or toilet paper tube on his tail? Or vetwrapping his entire tail with popsicle sticks to keep it straight so he can't reach it with the cone on? :laugh: (trying to be innovative here)

It drives him way more insane having anything on it I think. I ended up just taking the bandage off because he was chewing on it with or without the cone and making it bleed everywhere. The tip of his tail was all gross and bloody last night so I locked him in my bathroom and this morning there is no blood anywhere in the bathroom and his tail is squeaky clean! As long as he doesn't drag it around in poop or anything hopefully we'll be fine!
 
This is jumping back a bit to an earlier conversation, but I didn't want to make a whole new thread. The conversation about raw diets got me thinking about pet nutrition (something I never really thought much about before) and I was wondering what people had to say about corn. Is it true that having corn as the first ingredient in dog food is as bad as people say? I've never heard a vet talk about this. Just from my own experience, we fed my dog Purina Dog Chow (I believe the first ingredient is corn) for most of her life, and she lived to be almost 13 and as far as I know never had any diet-related issues. Thoughts?
 
This is jumping back a bit to an earlier conversation, but I didn't want to make a whole new thread. The conversation about raw diets got me thinking about pet nutrition (something I never really thought much about before) and I was wondering what people had to say about corn. Is it true that having corn as the first ingredient in dog food is as bad as people say? I've never heard a vet talk about this. Just from my own experience, we fed my dog Purina Dog Chow (I believe the first ingredient is corn) for most of her life, and she lived to be almost 13 and as far as I know never had any diet-related issues. Thoughts?

I'll bite. It seems as though in my experience most people don't have a strong enough background in nutrition to really understand the nuances of the food label. Regardless, that doesn't seem to stop people from passionately bashing foods they feel aren't nutritionally adequate. There's also these little quips that get started and spread like wildfire, the corn as the first ingredient one being very popular. Is it bad? If the dog is allergic to corn, then yes. But dogs are not obligate carnivores, so *technically* this isn't the end of the world. Also, there are different ways to categorize ingredients on the label. For example, it could be corn, chicken meat, chicken meal, chicken byproduct and so on. Another food could have the same composition yet classify all of those as "chicken" thereby moving it to the top of the list. One practice I've worked at had a set list of "approved" foods that we were told to recommend. I could definitely use another nutrition course or two though and I'm sure that goes for many others.
 
I'll bite. It seems as though in my experience most people don't have a strong enough background in nutrition to really understand the nuances of the food label. Regardless, that doesn't seem to stop people from passionately bashing foods they feel aren't nutritionally adequate. There's also these little quips that get started and spread like wildfire, the corn as the first ingredient one being very popular. Is it bad? If the dog is allergic to corn, then yes. But dogs are not obligate carnivores, so *technically* this isn't the end of the world. Also, there are different ways to categorize ingredients on the label. For example, it could be corn, chicken meat, chicken meal, chicken byproduct and so on. Another food could have the same composition yet classify all of those as "chicken" thereby moving it to the top of the list. One practice I've worked at had a set list of "approved" foods that we were told to recommend. I could definitely use another nutrition course or two though and I'm sure that goes for many others.

:thumbup:

I don't know a whole lot about feline/canine nutrition (unfortunately that section of my nutrition class was SEVERELY lacking), but I did learn two pretty important things from a vet I worked with:

1. Corn is not necessarily a bad thing. Some dogs are allergic to it, in which case you simply avoid it. But for most dogs, corn is easily digestible and is a good source of carbohydrates (read: energy). It also serves as a good, healthy "filler" for dry foods.

2. Just because the label lists meat as the first ingredient does NOT mean it actually is the most prevalent ingredient. Since most dog foods are made with skeletal meat, and lot of weight/volume is lost as water during cooking. Just because it weighed the most before cooking does not mean it makes up the greatest percentage of the actual finished product, if that makes sense.

I agree with TooLove - I think a lot of the hype surrounding corn and/or grain-free foods is generated by people with little to no understanding of pet food labeling or animal nutrition in general. I've tried looking for actual scientific studies that truly assess the use of corn in companion animal diets, but have come up almost completely empty. According to my nutrition professor, it's just not something that has really been researched at this point. I don't know enough about companion animal nutrition to pass judgement on grain in pet food one way or the other, so my kids get Iams and/or Science Diet until I see compelling information to convince me otherwise. They all seem to do perfectly fine with it. :shrug:
 
Both of your posts seem to agree with what I found after further investigation. I did eventually come across some posts about this on a blog (A Vet's Guide to Life) and while it's not an academic journal and it is just one guy, his posts seemed to be more thought out and scientifically supported than "Corn not meat, so corn bad". They were also coming from a veterinarian (and a veterinary nutritionist who he consulted) rather than owners who really have nothing to show for their supposed knowledge of pet nutrition.
I also came across quite a few comments on his posts from people who thought all veterinarians and vet schools are in the pockets of the major pet food companies. Because conspiracy theories are always a great indicator of rational thinking. :rolleyes:
 
I also came across quite a few comments on his posts from people who thought all veterinarians and vet schools are in the pockets of the major pet food companies. Because conspiracy theories are always a great indicator of rational thinking. :rolleyes:

I love the clients who cross their arms, lean back and say "I fed my old dog/cat Dads/Walmart brand/Kitten Kaboodle etc and it lived to the ripe old age of X years old!"
 
I also came across quite a few comments on his posts from people who thought all veterinarians and vet schools are in the pockets of the major pet food companies. Because conspiracy theories are always a great indicator of rational thinking. :rolleyes:

I don't know about anyone else, but as a pre-vet grad student who has studied nothing but science for the last seven years, it's difficult to remember how science-illiterate the general population is -add to that the fact that science people tend to congregate and insulate each other from that gullible-anecdotal-magic-believin' population.

Sometimes I am absolutely astounded by the things people believe, conspiracies and otherwise. Nutrition and medicine are two areas where people just are open-minded to the point of senselessness. It's amusing, but when those people are politicians, teachers, TV personalities - anyone with connections and a platform to spew their crazy- it's terrifying.

Like Orwellian, dystopic-future terrifying.
 
Does anyone have tips for getting cats to wear collars even when they hate it? I have a regular safety clip collar for both my cats but only one will wear it. I've tried positive reinforcement with lots of treats but Bear can't focus on the treats if the collar is on. I also tore the bell off since the noise freaked him out.

I'm worried with the move that he might freak out and try to get away (unlikely since he usually just hides). He's an eartipped cat and I have this big fear that if a shelter picked him up they'd think he's a feral and drop him off in a random colony. He's chipped but I don't know if they'd look if they think he's feral. He does have some ferally tendencies around strangers but he doesn't look feral--14 lbs and well taken care of except the overweight thing. If he has a collar on at least it will be obvious that he's owned.

Picture for fun:
d390ce67-0597-4854-b6cc-ad6a9e086d37_zpsc8227e03.jpg
 
Does anyone have tips for getting cats to wear collars even when they hate it? I have a regular safety clip collar for both my cats but only one will wear it. I've tried positive reinforcement with lots of treats but Bear can't focus on the treats if the collar is on. I also tore the bell off since the noise freaked him out.

I'm worried with the move that he might freak out and try to get away (unlikely since he usually just hides). He's an eartipped cat and I have this big fear that if a shelter picked him up they'd think he's a feral and drop him off in a random colony. He's chipped but I don't know if they'd look if they think he's feral. He does have some ferally tendencies around strangers but he doesn't look feral--14 lbs and well taken care of except the overweight thing. If he has a collar on at least it will be obvious that he's owned.

Picture for fun:
d390ce67-0597-4854-b6cc-ad6a9e086d37_zpsc8227e03.jpg


I'm a naughty mom. Both my girls loathe collars, so they don't wear them. :oops:
 
Short version: My cat has chronic eye issues but most likely does not have a mass in her eye and does not need to see a specialist. Yay!

Long version: My cat has some form of herpes in her eye that she's had for most of her life. For a while she was on eye drops every day, but when she went to the vet in February, she (a relief vet, not her normal one) said that since there were no active lesions on her cornea, she didn't need the drops. Recently the eye started weeping continuously, so we took her to the vet. The same relief vet happened to be there. That's when things got bad... The vet said it looked to her like there might be a mass in her eye, but she couldn't get a good look at it and that we would need to take her to a specialist. I of course was worrying about the cost, on top of being close to tears because my baby might have this serious issue. But we decided to wait and get her regular vet's opinion when he was back in town. We went on Thursday and he said that he didn't see a mass and that she just needed to go back on her eye drops. He's been seeing her for 8 years and is familiar with her eye, so we trust that he would have noticed anything off. We're all so relieved, I was smiling like a fool when we were leaving :)
 
Short version: My cat has chronic eye issues but most likely does not have a mass in her eye and does not need to see a specialist. Yay!

Long version: My cat has some form of herpes in her eye that she's had for most of her life. For a while she was on eye drops every day, but when she went to the vet in February, she (a relief vet, not her normal one) said that since there were no active lesions on her cornea, she didn't need the drops. Recently the eye started weeping continuously, so we took her to the vet. The same relief vet happened to be there. That's when things got bad... The vet said it looked to her like there might be a mass in her eye, but she couldn't get a good look at it and that we would need to take her to a specialist. I of course was worrying about the cost, on top of being close to tears because my baby might have this serious issue. But we decided to wait and get her regular vet's opinion when he was back in town. We went on Thursday and he said that he didn't see a mass and that she just needed to go back on her eye drops. He's been seeing her for 8 years and is familiar with her eye, so we trust that he would have noticed anything off. We're all so relieved, I was smiling like a fool when we were leaving :)

I will just say that having worked at a veterinary ophthalmologist it's never a bad idea to get an opinion from them. I'm not sure about other practices, but our prices were actually really reasonable. Plus ophthalmologists have way more instruments and medications to really properly diagnose and treat eye diseases, a lot of the time GP practitioners just don't have the tools they need to really do that effectively. Not saying this is the case with your vet, but we see SO many cases of misdiagnosed eye conditions just because GP vets aren't seeing all the weird ophthalmologic diseases we see at a specialty practice (which is totally reasonable, that's why you have specialists).
My point being it may be worth getting it double checked if she's had problems for so long.
 
I will just say that having worked at a veterinary ophthalmologist it's never a bad idea to get an opinion from them. I'm not sure about other practices, but our prices were actually really reasonable. Plus ophthalmologists have way more instruments and medications to really properly diagnose and treat eye diseases, a lot of the time GP practitioners just don't have the tools they need to really do that effectively. Not saying this is the case with your vet, but we see SO many cases of misdiagnosed eye conditions just because GP vets aren't seeing all the weird ophthalmologic diseases we see at a specialty practice (which is totally reasonable, that's why you have specialists).
My point being it may be worth getting it double checked if she's had problems for so long.

I'm not sure that my mom will want to take her now that her vet has said we don't need to... And I can't do it myself because I'll be leaving for school in a couple of days. The relief vet who recommended it originally said that the visit and evaluation alone would be a couple hundred dollars, and that's without any treatments or anything.
 
Does anyone have tips for getting cats to wear collars even when they hate it? I have a regular safety clip collar for both my cats but only one will wear it. I've tried positive reinforcement with lots of treats but Bear can't focus on the treats if the collar is on. I also tore the bell off since the noise freaked him out.

I'm worried with the move that he might freak out and try to get away (unlikely since he usually just hides). He's an eartipped cat and I have this big fear that if a shelter picked him up they'd think he's a feral and drop him off in a random colony. He's chipped but I don't know if they'd look if they think he's feral. He does have some ferally tendencies around strangers but he doesn't look feral--14 lbs and well taken care of except the overweight thing. If he has a collar on at least it will be obvious that he's owned.

Hedgie, my brat of a cat (whom I love dearly) hated wearing collars at first. I have the safety ones that will unsnap if they get caught on anything. Well, she discovered that she can just reach down and with her tongue pull it into her mouth and then it will get stuck in her mouth and eventually snap off. Then she would play with the collar. I just kept putting it back on her, if she started playing with the collar then I would distract her with something more exciting. It took a lot of diversion and continuous replacing of the collar. Also, the collars began to not snap off when she would get it in her mouth so then they would get stuck and that freaked her out. So she wears one just fine now. She will still get them off on occasion, but it was just repetitive putting the collar on and reassuring her that it was fine. Diverting her attention with a favorite toy seemed to work the best because she was never food motivated as a kitten, even now, toys will trump food at times. Just keep at it. I think some cats just have a more difficult time getting used to a collar.
 
Unrelated to her eye issues, my kitty is a teeny bit overweight. Do you guys have any recommendations for kitty exercise and weight loss? She seems to get bored with regular wand toys very very quickly.
 
Unrelated to her eye issues, my kitty is a teeny bit overweight. Do you guys have any recommendations for kitty exercise and weight loss? She seems to get bored with regular wand toys very very quickly.

Decrease amount of food.

Also, laser pointers.

Other than that, it depends on your cat. They make smart toys for dogs and some translate to cats. Also, you can throw kibble for them to chase
 
Unrelated to her eye issues, my kitty is a teeny bit overweight. Do you guys have any recommendations for kitty exercise and weight loss? She seems to get bored with regular wand toys very very quickly.

Ill be honest ... I walk my cat on a leash for exercise :laugh: He LOVES IT, scratches on trees. Ive also cut down his food intake and he has lost 2 pounds. Were just getting ready to take our evening walk right now.
 
Hedgie, my brat of a cat (whom I love dearly) hated wearing collars at first. I have the safety ones that will unsnap if they get caught on anything. Well, she discovered that she can just reach down and with her tongue pull it into her mouth and then it will get stuck in her mouth and eventually snap off. Then she would play with the collar. I just kept putting it back on her, if she started playing with the collar then I would distract her with something more exciting. It took a lot of diversion and continuous replacing of the collar. Also, the collars began to not snap off when she would get it in her mouth so then they would get stuck and that freaked her out. So she wears one just fine now. She will still get them off on occasion, but it was just repetitive putting the collar on and reassuring her that it was fine. Diverting her attention with a favorite toy seemed to work the best because she was never food motivated as a kitten, even now, toys will trump food at times. Just keep at it. I think some cats just have a more difficult time getting used to a collar.

Thanks DVMD. I will just keep trying. I'll probably wait a few days so he can adjust to the new apartment first.
 
Put my dog to sleep tonight :(

I'm so so so sorry :(

-----

My mom called me at 7 saying our family dog jumped off her deck (70lb MN hound mix, deck is 2 stairs high) again, he did this a couple weeks ago and landed limping on the RF leg. xrays of the leg negative at that time, started previcox. Happened again but limping on the LF leg now, and then came inside and wanted to eat but didn't, wanted to drink but didn't, pacing and uncomfortable and panting. Recommended she go to emergency, they're really nice there and I spoke with the front desk, tech, and the doctor because (bless my mom) she's illiterate with anything medical. Good news, an exam and xrays. I was most worried about neuro component or possibly a disc issue, less worried but possible with some sort of bloat thing since he vomited. Referred pain from the neck, sounds lumbar, xrays look fairly good they didn't recommend an MRI or anything like that. Going to start pain meds, continue previcox, and possibly start a muscle relaxer. Tough night for my old pup and my mom! :( Sucks I can't be there, I'm 1200 miles away.
 
52NIIoR.jpg



My dog's personalities are so perfectly portrayed in this picture. Ms. Pensive and Mr. Crazy.
 
Any thoughts on getting (dry) urine out of a mattress? Lucy wet the bed while sleeping last night (very weird) and since it was so late the best i could do was soak up as much as possible.

yes she's going to the vet ;)
 
Any thoughts on getting (dry) urine out of a mattress? Lucy wet the bed while sleeping last night (very weird) and since it was so late the best i could do was soak up as much as possible.

yes she's going to the vet ;)

Start wash like normal, but add 1 cup vinegar(white). Let soak for awhile(an hour?), then wash. Repeat wash, but without the vinegar. (It MAY discolor your sheets, not sure what color they are, but it should get the pee smell out)
 
Start wash like normal, but add 1 cup vinegar(white). Let soak for awhile(an hour?), then wash. Repeat wash, but without the vinegar. (It MAY discolor your sheets, not sure what color they are, but it should get the pee smell out)

no no, i mean the actual mattress :-/ though i suppose i could just set it outside here for the day with some soap and the rainy season could take care of things :laugh:
 
Any thoughts on getting (dry) urine out of a mattress? Lucy wet the bed while sleeping last night (very weird) and since it was so late the best i could do was soak up as much as possible.

yes she's going to the vet ;)

Nature's Miracle has worked for me with dry cat urine so I'd say give that a try if you can get it. You've just got to let it really soak in and then dry so you may not be able to sleep on your mattress while it's wet. The stuff in the red bottle is the best.

http://www.amazon.com/Natures-Mirac...d=1377556144&sr=8-5&keywords=nature's+miracle
 
no no, i mean the actual mattress :-/ though i suppose i could just set it outside here for the day with some soap and the rainy season could take care of things :laugh:

I don't know about how to fix your current problem ...

But have you considered getting a mattress protector? We have one for ours because our pets like to sleep with us and will sleep on our bed during the day. We had a slightly urinary incontinent foster for a while too. The mattress protector we have is soft on the top and goes under the sheets. You seriously can't even tell it's there and we wash it when we wash our sheets :thumbup:
 
I am thoroughly enjoying my mornings now that my kitten is getting closer to three months. My 10 year old cat is playing with him more now that he won't break him and the kitten is cracking me up finding "treasures" such as vacuum cleaner attachments to bring me. :)
 
My Dane baby grunts and moans in his sleep every 5 seconds :laugh:
 
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