The amalgam you use is key... There are some amalgams that are way easier to work with than others. I don't use amalgam in my office, but IIRC, spherical amalgam sets a lot faster, sets a lot harder initially, and way easier to carve. If you can get Tytin FC - made my life way easier than the admixed stuff. Easier to condense, stronger, less likely to fracture, and easy to polish. Sometimes, to get the perfect margin, you have to do a little enameloplasty along the occlusal margins.
Also, in real practice, anatomy with secondary and tertiary grooves are overrated. It is more for us, than the patient. From personal experience, I told my friend to take out the anatomy after he made this awesome looking restoration in my mouth... unfortunately, those secondary and tertiary grooves ended up acting as irritating food traps.
Carving it... there's this instrument a long time ago that I used to use. Looks like a spade. Don't recall what it is called. Then there's the acorn to "draw" grooves". Depending on the amalgam that you use, you can get away using a football carbide with tons of irrigation to do a quickcarve as long as you are moving your handpiece in the right direction. Otherwise, you'll gouge your amalgam. Another easy polish tool is a FG arkansas stone shaped like a football. If you're looking for board quality shininess, you could use dialite/diamond impregnated rubber wheels. It may ruin the wheels, generate a ton of heat, cause pulpitis, but it'll look really really shiny for the boards.