Google tells me the Phoenix goes at 5.13a, in a place known for stiff grades. That's some crazy sh*z of a solo to be doing the day before Chouinard-Herber. . .
What's really bizarre is how my favorite free climber, Michael Reardon, died of a rogue wave taking him out to sea. Broke my heart, too, to hear Todd Skinner's harness snapped.
It's hands down the best, most challenging/social/exciting/relaxing sport out there and I still climb, still have have a number of friends living in vans but I'm much less bold than when I started. I've had two holds break in my hand while free soloing and more than that on lead on sparse gear. After going through medical school and seeing chronic pain, and debilitation from just a busted knee, or hip, yeah, I take it easy.